To say I’m smitten with the city of Savannah, Georgia would be a huge understatement. I was immediately taken in by the ancient live oak trees dripping with Spanish moss and the preserved and restored architecture of an era gone by (much by the well-loved Savannah College of Art and Design). I was even more drawn in by the rich and unique history of this place. Much of which we could learn a lot from today!
As I visited this wonderous city I’ve learned so much about its beginnings. This is a story we in 2020 need so very much to hear. I’ll do my best to capture what I’ve heard and read and try not to be too verbose. Because you see, Savannah was the only colony settled without bloodshed! A place that two very diverse men worked together to create America’s first planned city. That city plan is still in place and functional to this day nearly 300 years later! I have plans I put in place last week that are not looking so promising 😉. Thank you Hurricane Delta! 😒
I promise to offer some tips on visiting this beautiful city in day or a week, in sunshine or in rain, with a friend or alone, as I had the opportunity to visit in multiple circumstances! You’ll want to make the most of your visit and I’ll do my best to help you make that happen!
Can you believe this? It’s History… but don’t miss the current day lesson!
While I’m not typically the history buff in our family, (far from it actually) as I toured the city and heard of its beginnings, I started to reflect on what an amazing story this was, particularly in light of today’s combative politics. I started to deep dive into the history of these two men that met on the banks of the Savannah river back in February of 1733 hoping to learn how that worked. James Oglethorpe was a 37-year-old Englishman sent by King George II with about 120 persons mostly from debtors’ prison to secure the land between the English settled Carolinas and the Spanish settled Florida. The Chief of the Yamacraw tribe numbering approximately 200 that were already calling this area home was Tomochichi, he was at the time ~89 years of age. Both of these men had previous dealings with the other’s kind and had both disagreed with their own kind on ways things were handled. Both would be considered social reformists. When they came together, they saw that both cultures had something of value to offer to the other and they began to work together, becoming lifelong friends and are considered cofounders of the city.
I am in awe of this! The age difference, the language barrier, the cultural differences, the religious differences! They both by historically recorded accounts approached this as something where they could mutually benefit. They studied one another’s ways and inquired respectfully as to the reasons of different practices on both sides, they learned from one another. Oglethorpe ASKED permission to settle this land…. Tomochichi GRANTED the land to the settlers. TOGETHER they laid out the city plans! Can you even imagine it? They both saw that they had something to offer for the best outcome of all. They were unified in purpose.
More amazing history – Can you even imagine this? (Promise I’ll get to the how to travel here…but let’s indulge in imagining this trip!)
By late 1734 Oglethorpe and Tomochichi and a contingent of the Creek and Yamacraw tribesmen travelled to England! A long boat journey for the ~90 year old Tomochichi. (Seriously, I’m aching from sitting in a car for a few hours! In my 50’s… ok, late 50’s but still). This guy was on a mission for his people! To work out trade agreements for both sides. Tomochichi had many requests to put before the crown they included:
- Licensing of traders
- Standardized weights and measures for trade
- A system of redress and restitution for cheated Native Americans
- No Rum to be sold to Native Americans
- Teachers to help the Native Americans learn English and convert to Christianity
Together they signed the “Articles of Friendship and Commerce”. Friendship! When did we start leaving out that part in our treaties!? Let’s bring it back! A win win framework of agreements.
During their visit to London there were numerous accounts of the momentous visit in the papers at the time. Having lived in England in the 1970s I can’t even imagine Native Americans coming there, in traditional dress! If nothing else but for the weather difference! Yikes… maybe their weather predictions were not any better than ours?
They met with King George II and Queen Caroline at Kensington Palace where gifts were exchanged. Skins and eagle feathers from Tomochichi to the King and also of note the 13 year old son of the King and Queen one William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland (later known as the Butcher of Culloden) presented to Tomochichi’s nephew of 12 a costly gold watch and a copy of the New Testament saying “This pocket watch is for you, so that you can look at it and think of Jesus Christ at every hour of the day”.
The group also went to Oglethorpe’s home, and they met with William Walker the Archbishop of Canterbury!
One of the group contracted smallpox and died while in England. He had his funeral and was buried there in the church and the papers reported widely of all of the customs they observed. Can you even imagine!?
We can’t travel back in time but we can dream of the days leaders worked together for the good of all of their people… And we can travel to this magnificent city and see what the results look like years later.
Oh… and did I mention the movies that were filmed here? Forest Gump/Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil….MANY More The music? Johnny Mercer… of Moon River/Georgia on my mind fame..and so many more! This place is rich in history and vibrant in it’s present.
If you would like to journey to a place built on such an amazing friendship and that now attracts talent from film and music to art here are some of the details of how you can enjoy this historic city.
If you only have one day even if it’s 90% chance of rain … like it was on my first visit… I highly recommend the Old Town Trolley Tours 912-226-6805 you can book online or in person. The parking is included if there is space in one of the 2 large lots located at 214 W Boundary St or 234 MLK Jr Blvd. The price is $33.66 and you can hop on and off as you see a place you want to see more of and keeping in mind that if you try to see all of those sites on your own you won’t get the delightfully informative commentary and there is a $15/day pass for parking in Savannah so the trolley is a bargain! Pro tip – if your driver appears to have no personality or is reading from notes (rare)… drop off and catch the next one in 15 mins. There are some excellent guides and some that … well… maybe they are just new?
If you can stay the evening- Ghosts!
Savannah has been around a long time and has seen a lot! So…with that history… well… let’s say…Civil War, Revolutionary War, 2 fires that burned ½ the city each, yellow fever 2 times, one that killed 10% of the population… slavery that came after Olglethorpe left (he banned it along with hard liquor, lawyers and Catholics)…. So… there might be some spirits that were not quite ready to leave… You will find MANY ghost tours, some walking tours, some with “spirits”, all with a different twist on what ghost did what and why they think they are still hanging around. I found the different plot twists fascinating! It’s a fun way to spend the evening and they go on into the night so you can pick one that will fit your time and interest and be enthralled!
If you have more time – Take the trolley tour for two days (special price) and spend more time to walk it and really sit in it and enjoy it. Tour the stops thoroughly, take a few ghost tours, talk to the locals about their favorite places or their own ghost stories. It’s a very friendly city and I found it to feel safe even when I was there alone at night. There were lots of folks out and about for a stroll just enjoying being under the beautiful Live Oaks and enjoying the relaxing atmosphere of the place.
Where to stay
The hotels by the airport will take you about half an hour to get into the city. And will cost you less for your room and no parking fees. I very much enjoyed my stay at Candlewood Suites Savannah Airport My suite cost $86 with a kitchen and very comfortable bed/space.
The hotels downtown are delightful but will cost you a little more and will charge a daily parking fee. I stayed with a friend in a 2 bed at Staybridge Savannah Historic District, it also included a kitchen and was very lovely. The two bed price was $123 but you can get a King suite (including a kitchen) for $114 and we paid $10/night for parking on site while the site says it will be $20.
You can also stay at either of these for FREE with the IHG hotel points. I got one of their cards earlier this year and once I satisfied the requirements I got 140,000 points. I have been using points to get hotels for cheap or free all along the way. Beautiful rooms with comfortable beds and they have a lot of them in their chain. If you are interested, you can use this link to get your own points and free stays. And I get a reward for the referral! 🙂 Win Win 🙂 IHG Awards
So, you can choose what fits your budget or if you’re like me… and don’t like to drive at night…but want to hang out with the ghouls, take a walk by the river at night or have a couple of “spirits” then… do the safe thing… so you don’t become one of those restless spirits 😉
What to eat
This city has a delightful blend of foods! It is so difficult to choose! So I’ll offer up a few that I tried during my visits.
- The Pirate’s House – Featured in the classic Treasure Island this old ale house was said to be an inn for pirates and sea farers. It is said that some had one too many and woke the next day to find they had been “hired on” as help on a ship 😉 … yikes…some taking years to make it home. This is also said to be a haunted site.. Maybe by the wives that were waiting at home?
The food there now… is delightful… a tad higher in price but well worth the price. There is also a gift shop upstairs full of fun treasures.
- Savannah Seafood Shack – Very tasty treats, reasonably priced, great staff… featured on Food network, Cooking Channel and Travel Channel
- Treylor Park – Eclectic vibe, creative and tasty food… reasonable prices…
Can we talk desserts? Ok… so the waterfront is FILLED with Candy Stores… like MEGA candy stores…but the one that caught my eye… and drew me in with free samples of Home MADE Pralines… OMG
River Street Sweets – Ridiculously good…. If you can’t get to Savannah… you can order these to be delivered to your door….or mine…. for Christmas or any occassion 😊 They are good… Right Sheryl?
Sources for the history information… if you want more 😊
Edward Alksne says
Wow. Just wow. Sooo fully informative. Makes me wanna go. You should submit to Savanna Cty Travel & get paid bank. Proud to call ya my friend… oh that’s right you’re my Wife. Heehee
Jeanie says
Since you are the family historian this is high praise indeed! 🙂
Amanda says
Amazing blog, so informative. I haven’t been to Savannah since I was a girl, I look forward to going back someday.
Jeanie says
I’m so glad to hear you enjoyed it. I really enjoyed being there so much. Such a beautiful relaxing and walkable city so rich in history!